Quality rough material is especially important
to a beautiful emerald-cut diamond.
The term "emerald cut" came about from the fact that emeralds from Colombia are typically cut in this shape. The columnar, hexagonal Colombian emerald rough crystals yield the most attractive stones and suffer the least weight loss when cut into this shape. The emerald cut is the standard for Colombian emeralds, while rounds and ovals are considered special shapes.
In contrast, it is usually much more cost-effective to cut diamonds into rounds, due to market demand and the nature of diamond rough material. Thus the most common shape for diamonds is the round, and all others are referred to as "fancy" shapes. The diamond rough that emerald cuts are made from is shaped differently from the rough that is cut into rounds, and is limited to high-quality material. Emerald cuts make up less than 2 percent of all polished diamonds. For any type of gemstone, there is a certain amount of rough material suitable for making specific fancy shapes. Yet when demand for a particular fancy shape increases, material that is technically best suited for other shapes will be used, resulting in increased production costs. The main factors in the beauty of an emerald-cut diamond are its transparency and its overall appearance, and the quality of the rough crystal has a direct effect on transparency. Diamond cutters say that you cannot hide the rough's defects in an emerald cut, emphasizing how a beautiful emerald cut requires high-quality material. This situation is comparable to cooking- no matter how you improvise with cooking methods, you cannot make a tasty dish without quality ingredients.
The photograph to the next page is a 2.02-carat emerald cut diamond with high transparency and strong brilliance. The top portion (crown) of the stone has three steps, and though it cannot be seen in the photograph, the bottom (pavilion) has four steps, all placed in a regular pattern. Unlike rounds or marquise cuts that show a more flashy brilliance, the emerald cut has a characteristically understated and dignified appearance.
The emerald cut was particularly popular in the Japanese market during the 1950s. This probably was because the emerald cut's reserved and deep-seated beauty stands out when worn with the Japanese kimono.
CUT:FACET ARRANGEMENT
Step Cut
"Step cut" refers to a cutting style in which facets are placed parallel to the girdle in a step- like fashion. The step cut is characterized by the uncomplicated pattern of reflections created by its parallel surfaces, which give it a static brilliance unlike the lively sparkle of the brilliant cut. Along with the brilliant cut, the step cut is a representative style of faceted cuts.
The emerald cut is a square or rectangular step cut with beveled corners. There are various other step-cut shapes, such as squares, and baguettes (small rectangles) and tapered baguettes, which are often used as accent stones. Colored stones are sometimes cut with a step-cut crown and brilliant-cut pavilion, and vice versa. These are called "mixed" cuts.
Brilliant Cut
As the photograph below demonstrates, a brilliant cut is a cutting style in which the facets radiate outward toward the girdle. The round brilliant cut used for diamonds is a fundamental brilliant cut, often just called a "round" or "brilliant" cut. The marquise brilliant cut and pear-shaped brilliant cut also have their names shortened to either the cut (facet arrangement) or shape (face-up outline), and are simply referred to as "marquise" or "pear shape." As its name implies, the brilliant cut is a facet arrangement style that brings out strong brilliance, a different beauty than the dignified and serene beauty of the step cut.
Princess Cut
The princess cut is a style that succeeds in merging the scintillation of a brilliant cut with a square shape. The princess cut is the most popular square cut developed to date.
JUDGING QUALITY
An ice-like level of transparency, a brilliance that seems to emanate from within the stone, and an overall balance of appearance are the quality factors of an emerald-cut diamond. There is no way to grasp this other than by visual observation and comparison. Ninety-nine percent of this beauty depends upon the quality of the rough crystal. High-quality crystals are polished by skilled cutters to create emerald-cut diamonds.
Step cuts generally have subdued brilliance, making their internal characteristics easier to see. Especially in stones over one carat with a clarity grade of SI2 (containing noticeable inclusions that are very easy to see under 10x magnification), imperfections may be visible to the unaided eye and detract from beauty. Therefore, one must carefully inspect the actual stone when judging quality.
A critical factor in judging any gemstone is the quality of its overall appearance. This may seem like a simplistic statement, but such a judgment involves many complexities. There are various elements to consider, such as the balance of the beveled corners, whether the gemstone is too deep, whether the facets are the appropriate size and add to the presence of the stone, and so forth. However, careful consideration of the relative factors will make the quality of the cut apparent, allowing you to judge the quality of its overall appearance.
When light-colored rough material is fashioned into emerald cuts, its color often ends up looking washed-out. Light yellow material is often cut into princess cuts, deepening the apparent color and yielding more attractive gemstones.
HOW TO CHOOSE
In order to enjoy the characteristic beauty of an emerald-cut diamond, a gem-quality stone of 1.50 carats or more is recommended. A high transparent emerald-cut diamond with a fine shape will look like a totally different type of gemstone from a round brilliant diamond, even though they are the same material. Perhaps the emerald cut owes its highly dignified look to the fact that it takes advantage of the diamond's character just as it appears in nature.
When choosing an emerald-cut diamond, a good rule of thumb is to select a gem-quality stone of G color or better, with no eye-visible imperfections. The ideal length-to-width ratio depends on how well the diamond fits the design of the jewelry and your personal preference. Compared to round brilliants, emerald-cut diamonds are a relatively good buy these days.
The value of a one-carat-size emerald-cut diamond of jewelry quality is approximately US $5,000 for the stone alone. (2001)
A GEM OF VALUE
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