A subtle style that can make the most of
the shapes of various gemstones.
This star ruby and diamond ring is the embodiment of the words “grace,” “fineness,” and “ splendor.” The star ruby is held securely in place by long prongs that resemble the claws of an eagle. The beauty of the sequence of diamonds arranged around the star ruby and the elegance of the open space between the gemstones combine to create a heightened sense of gracefulness. To emphasize the beauty of gemstones, it is best if the precious metals are not too noticeable, but the fine lines of gold bordering the outer rows of diamonds serve as a focal point that tightens the whole impression of this ring. Close inspection of these lines of gold shows that they are separate from the diamonds.
The center stone is a cabochon-cut ruby that displays a six-rayed star when light is shined on it. This star effect is called “asterism.” It is caused by “silk” inclusions, which are fine, needle-like crystal inclusions of the mineral rutile that occur in three directions at 60-degree angles within the stone. Light reflecting off the rutile males the star appear on the surface of the cabochon. The attractive combination of its fine red color, distinct star, and pleasing outline qualify this star ruby as gem quality. Though the surrounding diamonds are small, the well-shaped marquises and strongly brilliant rounds are arranged in a well-balanced fashion, adding to the ring’s magnificence.
The ring shown below has a round brilliant cut diamond as its main stone, but the style is actually the same as the star ruby ring to the right. Since the center brilliant-cut stone is round instead of an oval like the star ruby cabochon, and the size is six millimeters instead of ten, the ring’s shape has been changed. The V-shaped borders are now in a straight, parallel arrangement, and the design has been adjusted to accommodate the more limited space. This design is an ideal style for remodeling, and has reportedly been requested by many customers over the past twenty years. There are many options available depending on the character of the center stone such as using tapered baguettes as accent stones instead of pear shapes. This is a superior design concept for customers who desire a more personalized piece of jewelry
Ring
Uyeda Jeweller
900 Platinum
18K Yellow Gold
Diamond
Size (mm):L21 x W11 x H24
Eagle Claw Star Ruby Ring
Uyeda Jeweller
Metal :900 Platinum/18K Yellow Gold
Total Weight : 13 grams
Size(mm) : L22 x W17 x H26
GEMSTONES
ENJOYED FOR THEIR
CHANGING APPEARANCE
Star ruby, star sapphire, and cat’s-eye chrysoberyl are examples of gemstones that people have treasured over the ages for the fascinating changes in appearance that they exhibit. The quality of the star or cat’s-eye effect is of course an absolute requirement, but other key points in judging the quality of these gemstones are the positioning of the effect, and the gemstone’s color, transparency, and overall appearance.
The key to choosing stones with special effects is to place priority on the attractiveness of their color. Gray star sapphires, muddy red rubies, or pale yellow or dark brown cat’s eyes are unacceptable no matter how exquisite the star or cat’s-eye effect, because they will not look beautiful while they are being worn. Stones that combine good color and show a pronounced star or cat’s-eye are extremely rare and valuable. Realizing that perfect stones do not exist, emphasize color and choose a gem that you like, and enjoy the stone for the character that only it possesses.
When purchasing stones at the source, such as the mining and cutting centers of Sri Lanka or Thailand, it is important to avoid cabochons that have excessively deep or large bottoms. These stones are unnecessarily heavy and therefore relatively expensive for their face-up appearance, and they are also difficult to set into the bezels of jewelry. Purchasing such bottom-heavy stones for their low per-carat price is a prime example of being “penny-wise and pound-foolish,” and will often simply prove to be an exercise in frustration.
CRAFTSMANSHIP
Looking at this ring from above, notice how there is a slight space between the lines of platinum and gold. Also notice how, from the side, the diamonds’ tables are situated just above and parallel to the top of the shank. These seemingly ordinary details have been carefully executed to perfection by taking the time and not sparing the necessary labor. The make of this piece reinforces the notion that true quality lies not in doing the extraordinary, but in correctly doing what is considered ordinary.
This ring was introduced some twenty years ago, and since then it has been made with various gemstones as the main stone. It is the result of the harmony of the efforts of goldsmiths and craftsmen in the workshop with the direction of the designer, as they all work closely together while following the producer’s guidelines.
Though quality may vary, there are many pieces of jewelry that appear to be similar. It may not be obvious at first glance, but careful side-by-side comparison will show that the similarities are only skin-deep. Even if the actual pieces are not available, the differences in quality between similar-looking pieces of jewelry may be observable in photographs. Because of advances in photographic techniques, characteristics that might be overlooked by the human eye can sometimes be captured even more clearly in a photograph.
This ring has a thick band that makes it heavier than most other rings, which is another one of its characteristics. Drastic attempts at resizing may loosen the prongs or ruin the shape of the shank. The symmetry of this ring should not be altered. If it no longer fits, it would be best to have it specially remade, instead of resizing it. Since jewelry is used over a long period of time, the time spent waiting in anticipation of a piece’s completing can be thought of as part of its enjoyment, just as with the time it takes to build a home.
