The clip is a practical item that has represented femininity since long ago.
This piece, based on the motif of a cosmos with four petals, is a well-conceived item that can be worn as either a pendant head or a brooch. It can also be used as a clip to hold a scarf, making it a practical item that serves to enhance a woman’s wardrobe. This piece wears very comfortably, and its creation is obviously based on a solid conception. As with all jewelry of high quality, it retains its charm even when viewed from behind, and one can see that it is made very carefully with a great amount of labor.
It has been more than fifty years since the appearance of the original design for this jewelry. The original Van Cleef “Cosmos” was a high-end jewelry style, made to order. Sizes varied to match the center stone, and they were often large pieces. Because of the style’s popularity, it was made in a wide variety. Many of the jewelry styles that are made over and over by important jewelers are chosen from especially finer piece that customers have had made, which are then used and improved upon. This particular piece is currently available in large, medium, small, and SS (extra small) sizes. The photograph on the next page shows the small size. There are versions with ruby, sapphire, or emerald set in the center of the flower.
People throughout the world continue to enjoy this cosmos style, and no doubt many original owners have passed them down as heirlooms, where they are still being treasured.
The ring, pendant, and earring set below is a more abstract flower motif, named “Trefle.” Unlike the cosmos to the right that attempts a true representation of nature, this is a more stylized design, finished in a smaller size and having a very charming personality. Wearing just the ring, the pendant, or the earrings will cause most people to want the complete set.
Ring
Van Cleef & Arpels
18K White Gold
Diamond
Size(mm) :L20 x W22 xH24
Pendant
Van Cleef & Arpels
18K White Gold
Diamond
Size(mm) :L420 x W11 xH6.0
Earrings
Van Cleef & Arpels
18K White Gold
Diamond
Size(mm) :L14 x W14 xH8.0 each
Pavé-Set Diamond Pendant
Van Cleef & Arpels
Metal :18K White Gold
Total Weight : 6.0 grams
Size(mm) : L25 x W19 x H10
Diamond
Untreated
Gem Quality
HALLMARKS AND
SERIAL NUMBERS
A characteristic of Van Cleef & Arpels (VCA) and other European jewelry houses is that they put their hallmark on all of the jewelry that they make. Van Cleef also stamps an individual serial number on every piece of their jewelry. The hallmark and individual serial number are manufacturer’s acknowledgement of their accountability for the jewelry, and make it easier for them to keep track of a piece’s maintenance.
Several years ago, a Japanese tourist lost a Van Cleef ring while in Paris. Looking everywhere but unable to find the ring, the disappointed tourist gave up and assumed it was lost. However, a thoughtful Parisian discovered the ring on the roadside, and because of the hallmark, the ring found its way back to the main Van Cleef store in Paris. The store was able to determine from the serial number that the ring had been purchased in Japan, and eventually the ring was returned to its rightful owner. There is no doubt that the owner of this ring was lucky, but without the VCA hallmark and serial number this good fortune could not have been possible.
Each individual piece of jewelry has its own unique identity. That in itself is enough to make jewelry dear to us, but the addition of a hallmark and serial number makes it that much more special. The fact that a piece of jewelry can find its way back to its owner several thousand miles away is testimony to the preciousness and power that jewelry possesses.
RHODIUM PLATING
Brooches must be lightweight, yet made with consideration for durability. As a while metal, 950 platinum is a standard, but if weight poses a problem with how the piece wears, 750 white gold (18K) will be chosen.
White gold is gold that has been alloyed with either palladium or silver. Though it is called white, the base metal is gold, so even if it is alloyed, a degree of yellowish color remains. Because of this, almost all white gold jewelry is plated with rhodium. Under normal conditions, the plating will not come off. When put under a jeweler’s torch during repairs, however, the underlying yellowish color is exposed, making replating necessary each time the piece is repaired. Yellow gold can also be changed to a totally white color by plating, but drastically changing a metal’s color by plating is not appropriate for fine jewelry.
As the photograph to the right show, platinum, white gold, and silver each have a characteristic color, but all have the same color after rhodium plating. The original colors of platinum and silver jewelry should be taken advantage of as they are. As far as white gold jewelry is concerned, customers should clearly be told that it is plated with rhodium, so that they can understand why this is done
