With jewelry, it can be said that the choice of materials is the design itself.
This light pink coral brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, called “Rose de Noël”(“Christmas Rose”), has been a favorite of princess Salimah Aga Khan (1940~) and princess Diana (1961~1997). When holding this piece, one cannot help but feel the splendor and calm that emanate from the petals of pink coral. The clasp on this brooch is a clip. It is a versatile piece that might be worn on h hat, holding a scarf, or with a string of pearls. This brooch carries with it the weight of having been selected by those who choose the best and have the style to wear it well.
Coral is a material that is made by marine microorganisms, making it different from mineral gemstones. However, its beauty is a match for any gemstone, and it possesses the charm necessary for jewelry. Here, a single cluster of round brilliant diamonds set among stems of yellow gold is surrounded by six petals of pink coral.
When coming up with the conception for jewelry such as this, deciding on what materials to use has a crucial effect on quality and value. For example, when making jewelry of the exact same construction, the value can be doubled or halved depending on choices made regarding the material, the color, and the quality level-even if the costs are identical. If agate had been used instead of coral in this piece, its attractiveness as jewelry probably would have been lost. Through the use of pink coral, the expression of the softness and gentle color of a flower petal is possible. The choice of jewelry materials is as important as the design itself.
The earrings below are a matching set for the brooch to the next page. They are impressive enough to be worn by themselves, but when worn with the brooch, the style makes a much deeper impression.
Earrings
Van Cleef & Arpels
18K Yellow Gold
Pink Coral
Size (mm):L32 x W30 x H12 each
Pink Coral Clip Brooch
Van Cleef & Arpels
Metal : 18K Yellow Gold
Total Weight : 34 grams
Size(mm) : L51 x W48 x H15
Pink Coral
Untreated
Gem Quality
Diamond
THE UTILITY OF
SUPERIOR CLIPS
This “Rose de Noël” brooch was made by artisans of Paris’s Place Vendôme, where the fiercely competitive atmosphere brought about this level of perfection. When the quality of the finished product is inferior, owners of the ateliers will mercilessly melt down the jewelry. The artisans, for their part, stake their reputations on the creation of fascinating jewelry. Wonderful jewelry of this level, with this kind of calculated yet simple design, could not be completed without such dedication. Just as athletes from around the world gather in one place every four years to compete in the Olympics, these artisans take their places in their workshops everyday, in a life-or-death battle to create this caliber of jewelry.
The clip shown on the top right considers ease of use and durability. It is lightweight, yet the connection between the body of the piece and the pin is solidly built. The key component to this clip is the crossbar that joins the two pins. A spring built into the crossbar controls the movement so that it operates smoothly and stops at 90 degrees. The pins are tempered, making them less likely to bend. The different lengths and spacing of the pins are carefully thought out to make the piece easier to put on and to stabilize it while being worn.
The center photograph shows the reverse side of the pavé-set diamond cosmos pendant from page 43. The clip mechanism is the same as the one above it, but the U-shaped wire seen in the far left is made to pass a chain through when the piece is worn as a pendant.
The brooch on the bottom is a style from roughly the year 1900. The spacing of the pins is closer, to match the long form of the piece. The two pins prevent the brooch from wobbling when it is worn on clothing, making the piece very wearable.
THE TONE OF CORAL
The colors of coral cover a wide range, including dark reds, orange reds (momo), and pinks, each color with its own character. The main gathering areas are the Mediterranean Sea for reds, the East China Sea for momo, and the ocean depths around Midway Island in the Pacific Ocean for pinks. Whether you like reds or pinks, tone is a matter of personal preference. The coral used in the “Rose de Noël” probably came from the East China Sea. It is of gem quality, with a tone level of 1. Coral is the product of natural activity, so just as with mineral gemstones, no two are exactly the same. High-quality pieces are those with an overall balance and beauty.
The hardness of coral is a low 31/2, and it is damaged by acids such as lemon juice or vinegar. The secret to preserving its beauty is to wipe it with a soft cloth after each use, and to keep it in a jewelry box, separate from other pieces.
